Why We Decided to Visit Setúbal
Setúbal, Portugal, is an easy day trip from Lisbon that somehow still feels a bit under the radar. When we were apartment hunting, our realtor found us a place in Setúbal. It wasn’t our first choice, mostly because we didn’t know anything about the city. But once I started researching it, it sounded like a pretty cool place.
That apartment fell through, and we ended up in Tavira, but Setúbal stuck in the back of our minds. We were already heading up to Lisbon for a Hauser concert and to pick up my mom for a visit, so we decided to go a day early and explore what could have been our home. This Setúbal, Portugal travel guide covers our quick visit, the food we loved, and the overall vibe of a city that surprised us in the best way.
About Setúbal, Portugal
Setúbal is a coastal city located about 50 minutes south of Lisbon, sitting along the Sado Estuary and at the edge of the stunning Arrábida Natural Park. It’s known for its fishing heritage, fresh seafood, beautiful beaches, and a more local, less touristy feel compared to many other Portuguese destinations.
The city has a strong connection to the ocean, which you’ll notice immediately from the marina, waterfront restaurants, and bustling fish markets. Setúbal is especially recognizable for its choco frito (fried cuttlefish), local wines from the nearby Azeitão region, and access to some of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal along the Arrábida coastline.
Beyond the food and beaches, Setúbal offers a historic city center filled with traditional tiled buildings, lively squares, and cultural landmarks like the Monastery of Jesus and the São Filipe Fort overlooking the city. It’s also one of the best places in Portugal to spot bottlenose dolphins in the Sado River.
Because of its location, Setúbal works well as either a day trip from Lisbon or a base for exploring the surrounding nature, beaches, and wine regions. It blends authentic Portuguese daily life with enough attractions to make it worth slowing down and exploring.
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Getting to Setúbal From Lisbon
Setúbal is an easy trip from Lisbon and works well as a day trip or overnight stay. Trains run regularly from Lisbon to Setúbal and take about 50 minutes. You can also drive, which is a good option if you want to explore the nearby beaches or Arrábida Natural Park. Parking in the city is manageable compared to Lisbon.
Getting to Setúbal From the Algarve
Traveling to Setúbal from the Algarve is straightforward, especially if you’re coming from towns like Faro, Tavira, or Lagos. By car, the drive takes around 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on traffic, and it’s an easy route via the A2 highway. Having a car also makes it much easier to explore the surrounding beaches and natural areas once you arrive.
If you prefer public transportation, trains run from the Algarve to Lisbon, where you can transfer to a regional train to Setúbal. While this option takes longer than driving, it’s still doable and works well if you’re planning to stay near the town center and explore on foot.
Our First Day in Setúbal
We booked a small apartment close to the town center, which ended up being a great choice. Everything we wanted to see was within walking distance, making it easy to explore without needing a car. After arriving around 1 pm and dropping our bags, we immediately headed out to find food because we were starving.
I always check the Find Me Gluten Free app when we travel, but there weren’t many options listed in Setúbal. Luckily, a lot of Portuguese food is naturally gluten-free, so I usually don’t have much trouble finding something to eat, especially when meat or seafood is involved.
Lunch at Sem Horas in Setúbal
We walked around a bit and stumbled on a super cute restaurant called Sem Horas in the town center. The atmosphere immediately pulled us in. The patio was shaded with gorgeous floral tapestry umbrellas, paired with hanging spherical wooden lamps that made the space feel warm and inviting.
Even the details stood out. The silverware was some of the most beautiful cutlery I’ve ever seen, embossed with a floral pattern in a dark pewter color. Lunch itself was just as good. We started with a pitcher of Moscatel sangria, which was perfect for a leisurely afternoon meal.
I ordered the black pork cheeks, stewed in red wine and rosemary, and served with potatoes. I had never had pork cheeks before moving to Portugal, but they’ve quickly become one of my favorite dishes. They’re always incredibly tender and full of flavor. Karl had the duck magret with a moscatel and orange sauce and a side of couscous.
For dessert, I had a chocolate panna cotta with berries and cream, while Karl went for a slice of moscatel cake. Everything was spectacular. It was a beautiful, relaxed lunch and came to about €55 total.
Sem Horas is a great option if you’re looking for a well-rated restaurant in Setúbal with a relaxed atmosphere and elevated Portuguese dishes.
Exploring Setúbal’s Town Center
After lunch, we walked around the town a bit more, starting in the main square, Praça do Bocage. The area is lined with restaurants, cafes, and small shops, and many of the streets are decorated with colorful hanging installations that make the city feel lively and cheerful.
We then walked over to the Monastery of Jesus, originally built in the 1490s. The monastery suffered significant damage during the 1776 earthquake but has since been designated a national monument and is considered one of the most important Manueline buildings in Portugal. It also houses a museum, which we didn’t have time to visit, but we did step inside the church.
Walking Along the Waterfront
After exploring the historic center, we made our way toward the waterfront. This part of Setúbal felt calmer and more open, with wide walkways, marina views, and plenty of spots to sit and slow down. It was a nice contrast to the busier streets near Praça do Bocage.
For sunset, we grabbed a bottle of sangria and headed to Jardim Engenheiro Luís da Fonseca, a park right by the water. We sat and watched the sun dip behind the mountains, which felt like the perfect way to end the day.
One of the things I love most about living in Europe is how normal this kind of moment feels. Friends, couples, even dates, sitting in parks, sharing a bottle of wine and a few snacks, no rush, no agenda. It’s such a simple pleasure, but it’s something that still feels special every time.
Evening Drinks and Dinner in Setúbal
After sunset, we walked over to Crazy Dolphin Pub for a drink. It’s a laid-back bar with outdoor picnic tables and a fun, casual atmosphere. They host live music and events, but it was still pretty quiet when we arrived. Nightlife starts late in Portugal, and we also had an early morning ahead of us, so we didn’t stay long. I had a cider, and Karl went for a craft beer.
Since lunch had been pretty big, we kept dinner simple and headed to Bodega Setúbal, a cozy Brazilian spot not far away. We ordered tapiocas, which are similar to crepes but made with cassava and can be filled with savory ingredients. Mine had butter, cheese, and chouriço, while Karl went with chouriço and butter because he doesn’t like cheese, which I will never fully understand. He had never tried tapiocas before, so I was excited for him to give them a shot. There was live music playing, which made it a really fun place for dinner. The total cost was about €10.
Our last stop of the night was Le Boheme, a super cool bar just around the corner. They had creative cocktails as well as hot teas with alcohol, which was exactly what I needed since it was much colder in Setúbal than in Tavira. I ordered a mint tea with honey and liquor, and it was perfect. The bar had a very bohemian vibe, true to its name. I would have loved to stay longer, but after a long day of walking, we had one drink and called it a night.
Coffee in Setúbal at The Coffee
The next morning, we stopped at The Coffee for a cup before heading out. They advertise having really great coffee, but I didn’t think it was anything special. That said, they did have a huge variety of drink options, which isn’t always common in Portugal. The menu felt more like a Starbucks in terms of choice.
They also offered to go cups, which is another thing you don’t see very often here, since most places expect you to sit and enjoy your coffee. The downside was the price. For a coffee in Europe, it felt expensive, with each drink coming in at around €5.
Things to Do in Setúbal
- Walk around Praça do Bocage and the historic center
- Visit the Monastery of Jesus
- Explore Mercado do Livramento, the largest mercado in Portugal
- Walk along the waterfront and marina
- Take a dolphin watching boat tour in the Sado Estuary
- Visit São Filipe Fort for views over the city
- Spend time at the beaches along the Arrábida coast
Gluten-Free Food in Setúbal
While Setúbal doesn’t have a huge number of dedicated gluten-free restaurants, it’s still an easy city to navigate if you’re gluten-free.
• Seafood-based dishes are common and naturally gluten-free
• Grilled fish, meat, potatoes, rice, and vegetables are widely available
• Brazilian spots offering tapiocas are a good option
• Always confirm sauces and preparation, especially with couscous or bread sides
I didn’t have any issues finding safe options during our visit.
Is Setúbal Worth Visiting or Living In?
I really liked Setúbal, and there was so much more I would have liked to do. The city has beautiful beaches lining the coast, and there’s even a resident pod of dolphins in the area that you can see on boat tours. It’s also a much larger city than Tavira, which means there’s a lot more going on day to day.
As we walked around, we passed several museums that would have been fun to explore, and Setúbal is also home to the largest mercado in Portugal, which I’d love to visit next time. I definitely want to go back.
The only downside for me was the weather. It was gloomy and a bit cold, with a thick layer of fog hanging over the water. You could barely see the boats in the marina. I need more sunshine and warmth in my life, which is why I’m glad we ended up in Tavira. That said, Setúbal still feels like it could have been a really cool place to live, especially being so close to Lisbon, my current favorite city in the world.
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Make sure to check out my Instagram @vegas.to.portugal for more pics of Setúbal, including some of the street art.
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