If you missed Part 1, this series covers the off-season experience in the eastern Algarve, traveling from Tavira to Vila Real de Santo António, and what the region feels like without the summer crowds.
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Why Visit Olhão in the Off-Season
Olhão is a small city in the East Algarve with about 45,000 people. It is the largest fishing port in the Algarve, and during the summer it can get busy with lots of tourists, just like the rest of the Algarve. During the off-season, though, it is also much quieter. However, since it is larger than some of the other places in the East Algarve, it isn’t completely dead, and there are still many things to experience.
What Olhão Feels Like Without the Crowds
During the off season, Olhão feels lived in rather than visited. Locals outnumber tourists, and the town has a more relaxed rhythm. The waterfront is quieter, the streets are easier to navigate, and it feels less like a destination and more like a place people actually live and work.
The Olhão Mercado
Olhão has a lively waterfront with lots of restaurants, bars, and shops, but the main focus of the area is the market. The market actually is in 2 buildings, right next to each other. One has mostly fish, and the other has produce, meats, cheeses, and other stuff. It is a beautiful market, one of the, if not the nicest, in the Algarve. On Saturdays, they also have a farmers’ market outside. The market is open every day except Sundays until 1:30pm.
Waterfront Parks
On each side of the market is a park. Jardim Pescador Olhanense to the west and Jardim Patrão Joaquim Lopes to the east. They are both nice and pretty parks to walk around in. There is a play area for kids, historical statues, an exercise area, and plenty of benches to sit and watch the boats on the Ria Formosa. There are also many festivals and markets that take place in the parks, such as the Artists and Fleas Markets, which are held in different areas of the Algarve throughout the year.
Av. 5 de Outubro
Avenida 5 de Outubro is the main road that runs along the Ria Formosa and is one of the liveliest areas in Olhão. Along this stretch, you’ll find a wide mix of restaurants, rooftop bars, and shops, as well as the town’s mercado and the parks. It’s a popular spot for walking and people watching, and it tends to stay busy even in the off-season, which gives the area a lively, local feel year-round.
Nature and Watersports
Olhão sits right on the Ria Formosa, a protected natural park that stretches for about 60 km along the Algarve coast. This area is known for its incredibly diverse ecosystem and is especially popular with bird watchers. It’s common to spot a wide variety of birds here, including flamingos, particularly during certain times of the year. The mix of lagoons, islands, and marshland makes it one of the most unique natural areas in southern Portugal.
From Olhão, it’s easy to explore the Ria Formosa by water. Boat tours run regularly and are a great way to learn more about the area while getting out onto the lagoon. There are also opportunities for watersports like kayaking and paddleboarding, which are well-suited to the calm waters. If you’re looking for beach time, ferries run from Olhão to Armona Island, making it simple to reach long stretches of sandy beach even outside of peak season.
The Centro
The centro of Olhão has plenty to see and do, especially if you enjoy wandering and exploring on foot. This part of town is home to more shops, restaurants, and bars, making it a good area to spend a few hours without a set plan. There is also a museum and a church in the center that are worth visiting if you want a better understanding of the town’s history and culture.
As you walk through the centro, you’ll notice how strongly Olhão’s fishing heritage is woven into the streetscape. Decorative elements throughout the town highlight the importance of the fishing industry, from artistic details to public displays. The cobblestone streets are lined with trees set in painted boat bows, a subtle but meaningful nod to the town’s maritime roots. Scattered statues, including one depicting the Legend of Floripes, help tell the story of Olhão and give the centro a distinct sense of place.
The Street Art
One of the coolest things about Olhão is the amount of street art and murals scattered throughout the city. You’ll spot them in all kinds of places, from quiet side streets to more central areas. If you take the train in or out of Olhão, you’ll notice even more murals along the tracks, making the ride itself feel like part of the experience.
The standout pieces, in my opinion, are the murals painted on an old, abandoned church. The building, formerly known as Vivenda Victória, has been transformed into a public urban art gallery as part of Olhão’s urban art trail. Local artists used old photographs as inspiration, covering the entire structure with vibrant murals that bring the area’s history to life and turn a once-abandoned building into a striking local attraction. The building sits right along the N-125, the main road that runs across the Algarve, and the contrast between the aging structure and the bold artwork makes it especially striking.
Marina Ria Center
The Marina Ria Center is a small waterfront shopping area located at the far end of the Ria Formosa in Olhão. It has a mix of shops, cafes, restaurants, and an arcade, making it an easy stop while walking along the marina. It’s a nice place to grab some wine, sit outside, and enjoy the stunning views of the water, especially during the off-season when everything feels a little calmer and less crowded.
What’s Open During the Off-Season
While some beach-focused spots close for winter, much of Olhão stays open year-round.
• Many restaurants and cafes continue regular hours
• Local markets and shops remain open
• Waterfront walks are always accessible
• Ferry access to the islands may run on reduced schedules
It’s not empty, just calmer.
Weather and Overall Vibe
Winter weather in Olhão is mild compared to much of Europe. While it’s not beach weather every day, it’s ideal for walking, exploring, and sitting outside with a coffee or lunch on a sunny afternoon. The overall vibe is peaceful, unpretentious, and very easygoing.
Where to Eat in Olhão- Gluten Free Choices
Olhão’s food scene still shines in the off-season. Restaurants feel less hectic, service is more relaxed, and it’s easier to get a table without reservations. This is a great time to enjoy fresh seafood and local dishes without peak season pressure. There are a lot of choices for food in Olhao, and it is not usually hard to get gluten-free items anywhere in Portugal. Fish is an obvious choice, since it is a fishing village, but there are other options as well. These are a couple of my favorites:
Pizza na Pedra–
This Italian restaurant was so good. They have multiple options for gluten-free pasta and pizza. The pizza is delicious and has a delicious crust. The restaurant itself is really pretty. It has arched stone walls and beautiful decor. The staff is friendly. The prices are moderate, gluten-free pizzas are €13 each, and they are a decent size. I only ate half of mine and took the rest home. It is right across from the market.
Fasian Ya–
This is a Japanese fusion restaurant with so many options. Their sushi is delicious, and there are plenty of gluten-free options. Just make sure to tell them you need everything gf. They also have Thai curries, pho, pad thai, bao buns, and more. They have good drinks as well. This restaurant is located at the Marina Ria Center.
Hola Torito-
This is the closest Mexican restaurant to Tavira. They have some gluten-free options. The food is ok, but the margaritas are really good, probably the best in the East Algarve! They also have a really cool atmosphere. They are located near the mercado.
Is Olhão Worth Visiting in the Off-Season?
If you enjoy quieter destinations, local atmosphere, and a slower pace of travel, Olhão is absolutely worth visiting in the off-season. It may not have the buzz of summer, but what you get instead is authenticity, breathing room, and a more realistic look at life in the Algarve.
If you missed Part 1, read it here
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June 24, 2024 at 10:19 pm
Amazing work!